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Russia sets new trends at MBFW

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - MARCH 14: A model walks the runway at FashionTime Designer fashion sho during day four of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia FW16/17 at Manege on March 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images)

Photo by Oleg Nikishin

The third day of MBFW Russia started with the fashion show from Detsky Mir that showcased the magnificent mix of warm and stylish apparel with a bias for sport. Quilted coats, knitted sweaters, oversize puffer jackets and vests look especially delightful in winter thanks to their garnish colours – dark blue, blue, raspberry-red and yellow. The collection features a lot of denim garments along with bombers and peg pants – hits of the ‘adult fashion’ that were so smoothly included into collection. Design, large animal prints and floral patterns were developed by such brands as Mishoo, Blue Seven, YO and Futurino.

Well-known singer, actress and TV-host Natalia Ionova (also known as Gluk’oZa) took part in the design of the capsule collection Barbie & Hot Wheels. Natalia dressed Barbie princesses in trendy riding jackets, longsleeves with prints of the favourite dolls, romantic dresses, skirts and pants with Barbie logotype. Barbie’s famous colours – pearly pink, purple, yellow and bright blue, so familiar to the audience from the childhood, were featured in the accessories as well – sport hats, baseball caps with a veil-tail, glinting school backpacks and snoods. Boys’ collection is also designed in casual style: bombers and T-shirts bustle with chevrons and Hot Wheels prints while red and dark-blue check shirts are carelessly tied around the waist.

Next on the runway were winners of the contest School Uniform. The catwalk primarily featured navy-blue suits with buttons on jackets and skirts, jersey, rather unusual for young fashionistas three-piece suits, check and velvet. Among accessories – glinting ribbons on pullovers and blouses along with bow-ties and ties for teenagers.

Collection from Anastasia Ilyina, winner of the contest for young designers from DHL, was captured by Oriental delicateness. The collection – tender as lotus in blossom, unfolded on hems of the dresses, sprout up to outwear fabrics, was majorly performed in light and brown colours. Knitted fabric was decorated with hand-made threaded pattern. Among the bright elements of the collection were cropped cigarette pants in the colour of freshly cut grass, beautifully accentuating milky white, terracotta and brown hues.

Another new-comer of the Fashion Week is the young brand VIPERS established by sisters Katya and Vera Viper. Graceful white chiffon and taffeta dresses, skirts with flared bottom, gauze coat with decorative zippers, all these garments are designed according to asymmetric principle. Designers found the smart approach to the hems complementing them with wide flounces, while sleeves of the coats were decorated by the stripes of coloured fur. Sisters designed a special print for the collection that is conceptually bound to brand’s name – viper’s head on lotus background. It was used not only as the pattern for fabrics but also as textile appliqués. In general, the collection turned out to be manifold and sensual due to numerous flounces, fabrics with the soft glint, low-cut necks and cuts.

GOGA NIKABADZE showcased his new collection for urban trendsetters. Relaxed garments of natural materials performed in multiple colours were combined with the plush tops. Very Impressionist-like patterns of dresses, grey steel of sets and mustard temper of apparel go along with the male and female suits in garnish violet and tender-mint colours.

Collection Super Mom featured by OKSANA FEDOROVA Design Studio by Oksana Fedorova is the delicate classic of black and white, perfectly geometric formal garments, the softest relaxed dresses in ‘peasant girl’ style, cosy sweaters with jersey skirts and bright garnish coats. The collection is filled with deep and profound concepts. Some items can be found in two variants – for mothers and their trendy girls. Moderate evening gowns are highlighted by scattered water colour flowers, the most delicate finishing on skirts’ hems interchanged by rather neat dresses in lingerie style. Garments in white-red-blue demonstrating the true spirit and power of the real Russia woman was the true pearl of the show.

Designer Y U L I A NIKOLAEVA focused on undertones and combinations. The collection came in an array of fabrics – mohair nap, patent leather, silky floating chiffon, the outfits were multi-dimensional and smartly designed. ‘It’s a new dawn. It’s a new day. It’s a new look’ is the slogan of Fall-Winter collection 2016/2017.

Vika Smolyanitskaya is the interesting avant-garde mix of artistic vision and glossy modern trends. Every single fashion show from Vika Smolyanitskaya is the perfromace that charges you with drive and happiness. Signature designer’s prints, glaring colours, architectural silhouettes and multifaceted geometric elements. Big hair, maxi dresses, mini skirts, Pop Art skirts, bright puff jackets and coats, every item is made to highlight your individuality.

Designer from St Petersburg Evgeniya Malygia who works under the brand PIROSMANI BY JENYA MALYGINA designs garments for complex creative personalities, earthly supreme creatures. She is famous for her signature style, perfect draping skills and ability to create new worlds with the minimum range of colours. In her new collection minimalistic but at the same time monumental oversize garments dominate over the multi-layered folds and items with numerous curves. Sweatshirts and coat-jackets with dropped sleeve line go together with the straight cropped pants that are not only suitable for any occasion but also very comfortable. The one and only monochrome is blended with red, bright raspberry-red, light cold pink and hues of blue. The array of materials is very wide but nicely mixed up – denim underlined by raw edges, cotton and linen. Experiments with the texture feature crushed effect along with already familiar glossy accents on matt surface.

The presentation corner housed the collection FanKruft Comprehension from designer IGOR YORK. The outstanding collection of accessories that featured craft items with the perfect geometric shape is the logic continuation of the previous collection. This time the bags look more feminine, there are formal bags along with the so-called fancy bags. Besides the collection features the new visualization approach – graffiti.